Letting the Train Take The Strain - the GWR Night Riviera

It is 10pm on a Thursday night and I'm standing on a platform, once again awaiting a train to take me out of the city. This used to be a regular occurrence,

but today I'm accompanied by my husband, a large suitcase and our two very excited children, and a statue of a bear called Paddington.

As we wait in the first class lounge next to platform one, both girls can't be kept in their seats, even with the drinks and snacks on offer. The view out of the window is far too enticing and even amongst the adults, there is a happy air of anticipation. At 10:30, a member of staff announces to the expectant group that the Night Riviera service is ready for boarding.

I've taken a night train once before, the (now sadly defunct) City Night Line from Paris to Munich and I knew that this would prove to be an adventure that the kids would love, after all, who can honestly say they aren’t even a little entranced by the romance of train travel?

As we find our cabin in carriage D, our Steward Sarah comes in to introduce herself, check our tickets and show us how everything works. She need not have worried, as the girls had immediately set to work, investigating every nook and cranny and claiming the top bunks as their own.

The challenge of getting the children to sleep ensued, once in pyjamas we closed the blinds only to be asked 'are we moving yet Mummy?' every couple of minutes. Just after they had finally dozed off, the train gently started to rock from side to side, as we glided quietly out of Paddington station on our way South West.

The comfy bunks, made up with soft duvet and pillows provided a soothing nights sleep, with previous concerns about being cramped were put to bed with a sleeping area over seven feet long, although at about two feet wide, it isn't a bed for rolling around in (the top bunk has straps to prevent accidental tumbling).

Early the night morning, a knock on the door announces it is time to get up, and Sarah greets us with our pre ordered breakfast of bacon rolls, croissants with jam, coffee and orange juice. We pull down the extra shelf over the bed and raise the window blind, for a meal with a view as we trundle on through the Cornish countryside. Getting washed and dressed in the small standing area is slightly more problematic, as everyone is clamouring to be the first to announce 'I can see the sea!'.

As we head towards Penzance on the final stretch of the journey, St Michaels Mount comes into view. The sun isn't shining, but the site is a spectacular welcome to Cornwall none the less.

We return to the station after two weeks of jumping the surf, building sand castles, visiting amazing historic sites and eating more fish and chips, pasties, ice cream and cream teas than I care to admit, sad to leave this beautiful part of the country. However the adventure isn't over. For the return journey we are taking the afternoon train, at over five hours. This takes us along the Cornish coast, inland past Truro cathedral and then back along the stunning English Rivera in Devon, with the sun glinting off the harbour waters as boats, small and large bob about on the waves like a scene from a children’s story.

The announcement at Plymouth that the Pullman dining carriage is available for dinner is extremely tempting and I can’t resist a look at the carriage and menu, albeit accompanied by my little one. The staff are welcoming and the food looks (and smells) delicious, but it will have to wait for another year (or at least until our three year old can play UNO using her ‘inside voice’. Instead we join the line for the café/bar counter and purchase wine and apple juice to accompany our pre-purchased pasty picnic.

Arriving back at Paddington, the statue of Michael Bond’s most famous creation greets us as we step back into the hustle and bustle of city life, already plotting a return trip, definitely by train,

Originally written August 2017

Location: UK

Cost: Night Riviera – approx. £390 for a family of four, one way (two cabins with an adjoining door), fares vary

Last visited: May 2018

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Hints and tips:

· Cabin bookings are released sometime around 12 weeks (but don’t seem to have a set rule) in advance and sell out quickly – you will need to call GWR to get child fares.

· Cabins have bunk beds and sleep two (two small children can share a bed and under 5’s are free, but don’t get their own bunk). Adjoining cabins are available – to provide four berths – cabin 1 joins to cabin 2, cabin 3 joins to cabin 4 and so on.

· There are no ensuite cabins – toilets are at the end of each carriage and showers are available at Paddington and Penzance.

· Cabins were refurbished in 2018 and power points including USB plugs are available in all cabins, as is wifi.

· There is a Europcar car rental desk in Penzance station car park – it is convenient, but the service is only ok. Take your own car seat if possible – for example a Trunki Boosterpak

· You will arrive in Penzance several hours before you are able to check into you accommodation. Perhaps take this opportunity to drive to Lands End for a walk, have a relaxing lunch and then stock up on groceries?

· The Night Riviera runs daily EXCEPT Saturday. The Friday night train is very popular and will sell out far in advance.